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The year of complications, icon anniversaries and sustainability
The most important watchmaking event of the year kicks off. This week takes place in Geneva Watches and Wonders, the haute horlogerie fair where major brands such as
Patek Philippe, Cartier, Panerai, IWC Schaffhausen and Zenith present their latest releases 2023.
From Relojeria Alemana, we have moved to Geneva to discover the novelties in person. We analyze the main novelties of our brands, where this year reinterpretations of classics and complications prevail.
Patek Philippe adds 17 technical and aesthetic novelties to its wide range of collections
On the occasion of the Watches and Wonders 2023 edition, the Geneva manufacture launches a wide selection of novelties ranging from a new Calatrava model with an
original 24-hour indication and a second Travel Time zone to a new Haute Joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime, through the first Annual Calendar
of the "contemporary sport chic" collection for women Aquanaut Luce. A new product under the sign of excellence and creativity.
Five new refined versions of Grand Complications sonnerie watches representative of Patek Philippe's savoir-faire
Patek Philippe reinterprets the design of its most complicated wristwatch, offering it for the first time in a two-tone version, combining white gold and rose gold,
with opaline brown dials (Ref. 6300GR-001). It also offers the same model in a white gold version set with emeralds and diamonds.
Another exceptional piece is the Grand Complication reference 5316/50P-001, with its platinum case and its blue metallic sapphire crystal dial with black gradient
through which the mechanical heart of the watch can be admired.
In addition, the manufacture completes its minute repeater collection. On the one hand, the Haute Craftsmanship Universal Time Minute Repeater reference 5531G-001
-first model of this type that permanently indicates the local time- and on the other, the Haute Craftsmanship Minute Repeater reference 5178G-012, with automatic
movement and "cathedral" bells of a particularly rich and deep sonority.
A new model of the Calatrava collection with updated complications and designs
Patek Philippe also expands its range of elegant watches for women with the new Calatrava automatic model reference 4997/200R-001, a reinterpretation of a great
classic that stands out for its rose gold case and its purple dial and bracelet. The dial, engraved with concentric undulations, is covered with more than fifty
layers of translucent lacquer that creates an extraordinary effect of depth. The case, with a diamond-set bezel, houses the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240.
New features and new finishes for Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce
With its blue gray dial and bracelet, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar model reference 5261R-001 in rose gold completes the range of complicated watches
for women with a model that is not gem-set. The new Aquanaut Luce automatic reference 5268/200R-010 for women combines a rose gold case with a taupe dial
and integrated bracelet. The Aquanaut automatic chronograph for men, already available in steel and white gold, is also dressed in rose gold in the new Aquanaut Chronograph
reference 5968R-01.
From technical models to jewel watches
In the field of complicated models for men, the flyback chronograph annual calendar reference 5905R-010, with rose gold case and blue dial with "soleil" finish, gives a
new image to this alliance of two highly appreciated Patek Philippe complications.
The Gondolo collection, which brings together Patek Philippe models with "shaped" cases, inspired by "Art Deco", illustrates the return of a jewel watch with an
unprecedented style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with double gradient colored spessartites that enhance the
lines of the curved case. The brown lacquered dial is decorated with a floral motif with contrasting finishes.
As every year, Patek Philippe presents a large collection of unique pieces and limited series(Dôme pendulettes, table clocks, pocket watches, wristwatches) that pay
tribute to the most refined techniques of high craftsmanship, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, hand engraving and wood marquetry.
The "Haut Artisanat 2023" exhibition bringing together these 67 creations will be open to the public from April 1 to 15, 2023 at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.
The Maison Cartier dazzling with its new jewel watches
In 2023, the Maison's design studio reinforces the original design of the Tank Américaine watch and its curved shape by sculpting a thinner and more acrobatic line.
Continuing with curved lines, Cartier explores the oval of the dial, the hallmark of the Baignoire watch, and transposes it to a bezel to slide
it as close as possible to the wrist. Thus is born a hybrid and precious object: a watch that is also a jewel.
Cartier's emblematic panther fiercely magnetizes the brand's latest jewelry watch. Fierce and wild, it is a masterful addition to the repertoire of
precious La Panthère collections.
Each year, an exceptional timepiece joins Cartier Privé, the collector's collection that celebrates and explores the Maison's mythical models through limited and
numbered edition watches. Today, Cartier Privé unveils its seventh piece: the Tank Normale.
Finally, the Maison surprises with the Clash [Un]limited watch, characterized by an elegant mechanism that stands out for its beauty, creating a
jewel watch that combines finesse and power. With beads, picot studs, clou carrés and mobility, the codes of the Clash de Cartier flow, intertwine, forge their way and manifest themselves in the form of a precious watch.
Tudor lays the foundations for its future by paying tribute to its past
The new member of the Black Bay line in 37 mm, the Black Bay 54, is the purest and most modern expression of the brand's first diving watch launched in 1954.
Expanding the existing Black Bay line, Tudor presents a new Black Bay with burgundy bezel equipped with the latest technical and aesthetic evolutions and new
versions of the Black Bay 31/36/39/41 in steel with a fixed bezel.
A new and enigmatic opaline dial joins the Black Bay GMT line, which combines with the characteristic burgundy and blue bezel. The model is also
equipped with an unalterable Manufacture Caliber. Finally, two more dial variants join the TUDOR Royal range: chocolate brown and salmon.
IWC Schaffhausen reinterprets Gérald Genta's iconic design in its new Ingenieur Automatic 40
This automatic model respects the bold aesthetic details of the Ingenieur SL reference 1832, created by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, but modernizes them to meet the most
demanding standards in terms of ergonomics, finishing and technology. The collection includes three models in stainless steel and one in titanium, all powered
by the in-house IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber with a power reserve of 120 hours. Also, the new models incorporate internal forged iron cages to protect the movements
from magnetic fields and are water-resistant to 10 bar, which gives great versatility to these sports watches of the 21st century.
The manufacture also presents its first 41 mm chronograph pilot watch in ceramic and introduces the "Oceana" color.
Panerai celebrates its history by renewing the Radiomir collection with new models based on its legacy
The most contemporary and versatile of Radiomir's interpretations, Radiomir Quaranta, is now presented in Panerai Goldtech™ material, matched with a
sun-brushed white dial and a matte brown alligator strap. Panerai Goldtech™ is a gold material featuring a combination of platinum and copper that gives
it a deep red appearance.
With its characteristic old-fashioned look, Radiomir Otto Giorni is inspired by the first Radiomir prototype from 1935. Each case is hand-finished to create an aged look
that gives each watch a unique character. The intensely worn effect of the eSteel™ case is combined with defining elements of the original Radiomir created for the
Royal Italian Navy: cushion-shaped case, slender wire lugs, distinctive sandwich dial and domed sapphire crystal, reminiscent of the Plexiglass® crystal
of the past. The distinctive grained dials in blue or brown of the Radiomir Otto Giorni are an ode to the historic Radiomir watches whose appearance evolved over
time thanks to anodization.
With the Radiomir California PAM01349, it is the first time that a California dial features 45 mm, produced since ever with 47 mm, while its green color
makes the watch a collector's worthy piece.
Panerai's new complication, the Annual Calendar, appeals to connoisseurs seeking aesthetics and authenticity. Developed specifically for the Radiomir collection,
it is Panerai's first annual calendar complication. Displayed on an external mobile disk, indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o'clock, each change of month is instantaneous
thanks to a cam in the movement. Thinking of a clear and immediate legibility, Panerai brings together intricate elements of time indication: the dial clearly displays
all the necessary information.
A tribute to the extraordinary formula that determines the timeless design of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents three new models of the Reverso Tribute collection, the standard-bearer of the golden ratio that determined the proportions of Reverso watch
designs in the early 1930s: the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph and the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds.
With regard to the novelties for women, Jaeger-LeCoultre further enhances the traditional artistic crafts of its Métiers Rares® extraordinary crafts workshop with two
new interpretations of the Reverso that demonstrate the infinite inventive and creative capacity of the Maison: the Reverso One Precious Colours and the
Reverso Secret Necklace.
Finally, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a magnificent expression of the 180 watchmaking professions housed in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture under one roof.
Hublot once again consolidates its position as a disruptive, creative and technical haute horlogerie
Hublot writes a new chapter in the history of the MP collection: a series of masterpieces aimed at collectors eager to discover the watches of tomorrow. Hublot defies
convention and sets aside superstitions to present its latest model. The 44 mm MP-13 is entirely coated in brushed titanium and, for the first time, brings
together in a single model two horological complications: the tourbillon and the retrograde dial.
The new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon watch has been brought to life with the successful fusion of Texalium and carbon fiber. Its movement is
inserted in a 43 mm diameter carbon fiber case, which has two major advantages: resistance and ultra-lightness. Thanks to this construction, the watch head (case and caliber,
without the strap) weighs only 42 grams, allowing Hublot to free itself from the idea that a robust watch equals a heavy watch, with its perfectly ergonomic integrated strap.
Lovers of art and extreme precision come together in this new chapter of the collaboration, dedicated to the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium. This unique
timepiece is presented in a 41 mm case that fits perfectly on any wrist.
Inspired by the Maison's iconic Big Bang, the Square Bang Unico adds a new pillar: "The Shaped Collection", which joins the Spirit of Big Bang.
Tag Heuer celebrates the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera
Worn by fashion icons, the legendary Carrera is an enduring symbol of timeless elegance. Highly legible under a seamless domed sapphire crystal, the dials of the two
new 60th anniversary Carrera Glassbox models - one in distinctive blue, the other in black and silver - are as refined as the new-generation
Caliber TH20-00 automatic movement is powerful. Ready to set the pace in style.
More colorful than ever, the TAG Heuer Carrera Date renews its timeless 36 mm racing-inspired design. The deep blue, pastel green, warm silver or vibrant pink
dials display a tone-on-tone, speedometer-like track along the flange. The stainless steel case, streamlined for optimal wearability, incorporates the updated Caliber 7 movement
offering a superior 56-hour power reserve. A modern classic.
Pushing the original 1963 Carrera design into the future, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph returns to its racing roots with a refreshed look. Distinct dials, one
blue and one black, adorn the two 42 mm models with vivid gradient orange accents that evoke the speedometers of classic racing cars. Crafted in stainless steel
and with luxurious calfskin bracelets, these modern racing watches are up to the task.
The sky's the limit for Zenith watches
Capturing the spirit of aviation pioneers who set their sights beyond the horizon, the new Pilot Big Date Flyback is a call to pursue your dreams, no matter how far or
how high. It features a number of new functions conceived specifically for the Pilot collection. The Pilot Big Date Flyback's oversized date display incorporates a
patented new-generation mechanism that advances and stabilizes the two large date wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. Originally conceived for aviators wearing thick sheepskin
gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset and restarted at the push of a button, simplifying operations and offering the possibility
of recording consecutive times without stopping.
In a balancing act between heritage and modernism, Zenith forgoes vintage aesthetics for something that draws inspiration from the entire spectrum of aviation,
past and present. It is imbued with all the essential characteristics of durability, legibility and intuitiveness, in a more contemporary context.
Chopard reaffirms its sustainable commitment hand in hand with Julia Roberts
At the heart of the new Happy Sport, reinvented in a 25 mm diameter case in Lucent steel or Lucent steel and ethical gold, the path of dancing diamonds
becomes even more fascinating. This resized iteration of the Manufacture's iconic timepiece comes in several variants with a choice of materials, colors, straps - including
a new double-loop option - and diamond settings.
The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph has an all-new 40.5 mm case made from Chopard's exclusive Lucent steel, an ultra-readable dial in a choice of
colors and a magnificent "glass box" crystal for a quintessentially retro look. Competition and camaraderie; power and propulsion; speed and style: all essential
elements of Chopard Mille Miglia watches since 1989.
With the L.U.C 1860, Chopard draws inspiration from the first L.U.C watch by combining the sophistication of a salmon-colored solid gold guilloché dial,
a 36.5 mm case in Lucent steel and the chronometer-certified L.U.C Caliber 96.40-L. This model celebrates the skills of the Manufacture expressed through a meticulous
finish duly recognized by the Poinçon de Genève quality seal.
Alpine Eagle expands its range with an ultra-thin model with small seconds indication. Just 3.30 mm thick, the L.U.C 96.40-L movement allows the Alpine
Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified precision. Optimal proportions and a textured "Monte Rosa Pink" dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and
distinction, while its finishes have earned it the Poinçon de Genève recognition.
Traveling to space with Chanel's new Interstellar capsule collection
The Chanel watchmaking creation studio has designed the Chanel Interstellar capsule collection, inspired by the world of science fiction, space and time travel.
This is composed of exclusive creations, among which are limited edition haute horlogerie pieces.
Baume et Mercier reinterprets the Riviera on its 50th anniversary
On the occasion of its 50th anniversary, the Riviera returns this year with three brand new 39 mm versions. Each of them features that distinctive twelve-sided,
four-screw dodecagonal shape and conveys an ever-fashionable sport-chic charm. Each of the three models is powered by the Baumatic manufacture movement,
which offers a five-day power reserve, daily accuracy of -4 s/+6 and up to 1,500 Gauss of solid resistance against everyday magnetic fields. All three models incorporate
a reliable interchangeability system that allows you to change styles with a single click and without the need for tools. Moreover, in the purest Baume & Mercier spirit,
the new 39 mm Riviera Baumatic models feature a dodecagonal caseback with a sapphire crystal fastened with four screws to reveal the captivating mechanics of
the automatic movement.
It also completes its launches with new Riviera models for women and three new pieces for the Hampton collection.
